In the Summer of 2013 we ventured to France, meandering our way through a few of the different regions. We began our “tour” in the South of France, and managed to explore just about every inch of the area that is humanly possible in three days. Growing up in a beach town of our own, we sought out to discover what made these ones so different, so luxurious, so famous. For centuries, wealthy and royal Europeans traveled to the Côte d'Azur to enjoy its breathtaking views and scenery, to swim in the refreshing waters of the Mediterranean, and to just relax in luxury. It took us planes, trains, busses, cars, and our feet to cover as much ground as we did. Join us as we take you on our grand tour of our experiences of the vacation traditions of the South of France.
Itinerary
To kick off our "Tour de France", we flew on United Airlines from Washington Dulles International Airport (IAD) to Paris's Charles de Gaulle Airport (CDG). From there, we boarded an Air France flight bound for Nice Côte d'Azur Airport (NCE). A bus brought us to the city center, near Le Meridien Nice, the beachfront high rise that we called home for our three days. We spent our first day walking around Nice, exploring its notable landmarks and charming seaside communities. On our second day we took to the beach, where we basked in the sun until we took a bus to Cannes for dinner. We spent our final day in Monte Carlo, where historical landmarks meet modern wealth, before taking the train back to Nice and boarding a flight to Paris for part two of our adventure.
Day 1: Nice
After three flights (one a Transatlantic red-eye), missing our hotel's bus stop, and dragging our luggage through Vieux Ville Nice (Old Town of Nice), our jet-lagged bodies had finally made it to our beachfront hotel, Le Meridien Nice. The main goal of our first day was to keep ourselves from falling asleep- that jet lag was hitting us hard. After arriving at Le Meridien, we made our way to lunch at La Terrasse, the hotel’s rooftop restaurant overlooking the breathtaking, turquoise waters of the Mediterranean Sea. This is was the moment we had long awaited: our first taste of genuine French bread. We especially appreciated the boost from the carbs, as we enjoyed our salads (salad Niçoise is the specialty!) and smoked salmon with toast.
We weren’t sitting for long before our heads became heavy, so we quickly finished and made our way to the Promenade des Anglais, Nice’s version of a beachfront boardwalk. The wealthy Brits constructed the promenade for themselves in the 1700s to take strolls with a stunning view during their vacation to the French Riviera. Many people walked, ran, or even roller bladed past us as we admired the view of the sea and the beach clubs that dotted its shoreline.
Walking on the promenade, we stumbled upon the iconic Hotel Negresco, which had been sitting on its beachfront Niçoise property for one hundred years. The famous hotel was built for Nice's wealthiest visitors, then was converted into a hospital during World War I. It is now, again, a luxury, five-star hotel with gorgeous exterior and interior art and architecture. We loved walking inside, sitting in all the vintage chairs, imagining just what European elites graced the lobby over the past century, and enjoying the not-so-historic air conditioning.
After nearly falling asleep in Hotel Negresco, we decided we needed another energy boost, this time at Gelateria Pinocchio. Funny story- from our research we found that the famous Niçoise gelato comes from Fenocchio Glacier, actually in Vieux Ville Nice, and our exhausted minds led us to believe that Gelateria Pinocchio was just that place! Well played, Pinnochio, well played. Though we never actually got that “world famous” Fenocchio gelato, gelato is gelato, and you can't go wrong with it served anywhere in Nice, which was once an Italian city.
After we got sugar boost from the gelato, we roamed away from the Promenade des Anglais to the St. Nicholas Russian Orthodox Cathedral. This cathedral definitely stuck out like a sore thumb, its onion-shaped domes and golden accents separating it from its Mediterranean-style neighbors. It was built for Tsar Nicholas II, so that he and his family could attend services during their vacations to Nice. We spent our time walking the grounds and planned to check out the inside, if it weren’t for our inappropriate clothing. Lesson learned: ladies, DO NOT wear shorts or a tank top if you plan on entering the Cathedral. A dress will do just fine, as long as your shoulders are covered! If you’re a history buff or love Russian architecture, put the cathedral on your list!
Rested and ready to hit the town again, we made our way over to Vieux Ville Nice to see the open air market and dinner scene. If you plan on doing any souvenir shopping in the city, this is where we recommend you do it. You will find all sorts of different stores with something sure to please you, and every one of your family and friends back home. This is also where you will find the most local flair. The majority of the restaurants were located in a cobblestone courtyard surrounded by mustard-yellow, Mediterranean-style buildings. The kitchens and some seating were on the edges of the courtyard, while the middle was lined with red, white, blue, and yellow striped tents for outdoor seating. There were so many choices in restaurants, that we felt a bit overwhelmed, but we were in one of the best dining locations in the world, so we knew that we couldn't go wrong. We chose La Storia for dinner, and we again were in awe of Nice’s famous bread, olives Niçoise, rosé, and people watching. We scarfed down more carbs: the restaurant’s famed pizza, and fresh fish before treating ourselves to a pot of chocolate mousse.
We decided we needed another long walk to settle our carbolicious dinner, a cultural norm in the Mediterranean. We walked up to the Monument des Morts, a memorial built into the face of a small cliff that honors the dead from World War I. The fortress-looking sight is perfect for watching the sunset, with views of both sides of the city. We continued walking around the other side of the monument, down into the port side of the town. We wandered through the marina full of ferries and mega yachts until it was dark, and then made our way back to Le Meridien, ready to hit the hay.
Tips
- When walking on the Promenade des Anglais, watch out for roller bladers! They can be crazy!
- Eat gelato at least once; Nice is famous for it.
- Visit the Monument des Morts for scenic views of Nice, and the best spot to watch the sunset
- If you decide to take a bus from the airport to your hotel, make sure you know where your hotel is located. In order for the bus to make a stop, the passenger must press a button to alert the driver when to pull over. We passed our hotel, not realizing how the system worked, and had to drag our luggage over cobblestone in the hot sun while wearing sweatpants. Yeah, not exactly fun.
- If you plan on going to the Russian Orthodox Cathedral, you cannot wear shorts if you want to go inside of it. Ladies, if you wear a strapless dress or shirt, you must cover your shoulders before going inside. They do provide you a shawl if you don't have anything to cover your shoulders.
Day 2: Ruhl Plage and Cannes
Our second day on the French Riviera started with Le Meridien’s breakfast buffet. We were treated to a true French breakfast: bread and pastries galore, with meats, cheeses, fruit, and the greatest modern European novelty: Nutella.
You must be surprised that we haven't yet set foot on one of the Côte d'Azur's beaches! Be surprised no more! After quite the satisfying meal, we made our way to Ruhl Plage, the beach club across the street from the hotel, with which Le Meridien Nice has a partnership. Most of the beach clubs have partnerships with one of the hotels in Nice, and offer a discounted admission rate for the hotel’s guests. With the entry fee, you get lounge chairs, towels, an umbrella, and access to the beach and the amenities of the club (clean bathrooms!). The beaches in Nice are rock, not sand, so we HIGHLY recommend that you spend your beach day at a beach club, unless you want to channel your inner Flintstone and lie on rocks all day. We spent the morning relaxing in the warm sunshine, jumping off the club’s small dock, and swimming in the refreshing Mediterranean Sea.
Somehow we were hungry for lunch, and we decided to eat at Ruhl Plage’s restaurant. The bread again did not fail to impress, and we enjoyed tagliatelle pasta with fruits de la mer (shrimp and squid), caprese salad, melon with Parma ham, and an absolutely delicious bowl of berries and crème fraîche. We also saw an older couple, whom we presumed were locals, enjoying strawberries and champagne- c'est beau, la vie! After lunch, we spent the rest of the day on the beach and in the water, before returning to the hotel to freshen up for our night out!
After a day filled with sunbathing and swimming in the sea, we decided to venture westward to Cannes, the city where celebrities grace the beaches for the annual film festival. It has a similar appearance to Nice in its buildings' architectures and beaches, but it has an even more vibrant night life, with loud music and restaurants open late. We decided to take the regional city bus to Cannes. After two hours and nearly falling to our deaths a dozen times (those drivers are crazy), we finally reached Cannes. We walked along the water of Le Vieux Port, imagining owning the massive yachts, and taking in the Palais des Festivals et des Congrès, where the festival is held.
We ended our walk around town with dinner at Caffé Roma, a large, busy restaurant with neon purple lights and music blasting in the background. The energy was certainly plentiful, probably even in the early hours of the morning. With more bread, stir fry, fresh fish, and a banana split satisfying our cravings, we were ready to head back to Nice. We would have loved to stay our and experience the vibrant night life that Cannes has to offer, but we were planning on waking up early the next morning for our trip to Monte Carlo.
We ran into a few problems, however. The bus that was supposed to take us back to Nice never showed up, so after waiting to no avail, we tried the train. At the train station, no one was working the ticket office, and we were unable to buy tickets at the self-serve kiosk because our American credit cards did not have the “chip” that European cards do, and that the machines require. With no other choice, we boarded the train and planned to purchase a ticket on board. We found ourselves in Nice before a conductor ever came around to check our tickets, so we accepted our free ride home, and returned to our hotel for the rest of the evening.
Tips
- Wherever you're staying in the South of France, if you want to spend a day at one of the iconic beach clubs, which is highly recommended, try to stay at a hotel that has a partnership with one of the beach clubs. It is these partnerships through which you can get discounted admission. Take full advantage!
- If you're traveling to a different city along the riviera, and time is of the essence, take the train to your destination. They are constantly traveling to other cities, and the station in Nice is a short walk from most hotels. If you're traveling on a budget, a bus ride to nearby cities is the cheaper alternative to the train; however, the train is much more clean, modern, and reliable.
Day 3: Monte Carlo
On our third and final day in the French Riviera, we hopped on yet another train and took the 40 minute ride to Monte Carlo, Monaco. Another buffet breakfast powered our journey. Don’t bother bringing anything to keep you busy on the train-it is one of the most scenic rides we’ve ever taken! We picked up the train at the Gare de Nice-Ville, and traveled through seaside communities, where we were able to look out at the beautiful Mediterranean Sea from different perspectives. Our personal favorite view was the boats, quaint villages, and the gorgeous water along the coast of Villefranche-sur-Mer, a town to which we hope to return if we are ever able to go back to the Côte d'Azur. We arrived right in the middle of downtown Monte Carlo, at the Gare de Monaco-Monte-Carlo. The train station's walls are covered in marble, and when we stepped outside, we could see luxury cars for miles.
We arrived right around the time of the changing of the guard (11:50 AM) at the Prince’s Palace, so we made our way for that first. The palace is up on a hill, and a bit of a climb, but the expansive views of the city, marina, and Mediterranean are worth the trek! The palace looked like a fortress with watchtowers and flags waving in the wind, dominating the hillside on which it stood. There is also a statue of François Grimaldi, the founder of Monaco, dressed as a monk. In the year 1297, he dressed this way, hiding some weapons, which he used to conquer the territory of Monaco. Since then, Monaco, with some minor bumps along the way, has been controlled by the Grimaldi family.
While waiting for the ceremony, we lusted over (and of course took pictures with) the luxury vehicles parked in the plaza, took in the views, and tried to stay out of the already sweltering sun. You’ll know the ceremony is about to begin when you see all the feisty tourists vying for a front row spot to watch. If you’re REALLY dying to see the changing of the guard, find a spot early, because people tend to get crazy, and you’ll probably end up watching the ceremony through someone’s iPad screen.
After the ceremony, we decided it was time to find lunch. There are a bunch of thin, pedestrian only alleys behind the palace, full of gift shops with basic souvenirs, essentials for the casino, and memorabilia of the Monaco Grand Prix. We picked one and ventured down it, choosing a cafe, U Cavagnetu, so local that the wait staff only spoke very basic English (we appreciated the opportunity to practice our French!). The menu offered a combination of Italian and French cuisine, including pizza, escargot, salad, and a lot of wine and bread, of course. We enjoyed the break as we people watched and imagined what life would be like as Monegasque royalty.
After lunch, we wandered through the different streets, stopping in shops and trying to keep our feet out of the cobblestones. We stumbled upon the Saint Nicholas Cathedral, the church in which most of the Grimaldi family is buried and has been married. Nearby is also the Musée Océanographique de Monaco. Viewing the activity that goes on underwater didn't really tickle our fancy while we were in Monaco, but we were glad that we walked by the building because we were very much interested at looking above the water. The views of the Mediterranean Sea from the lookout points were simply impeccable. We walked along the Avenue Saint-Martin, which eventually led us down the hill to the harbor.
If you’re looking for some inspiration for your next yacht investment, visit the harbor, or, like the rest of us, visit the harbor to dream about the yachts you wish you owned. Just about as awesome as the incredible views from the top of Monaco's hillsides are the sights on the bottom. Ferraris, Aston Martins, and Lamborghinis zoom through the streets across from three to five-deck yachts docked along the marina. Take your time walking along the waterfront, it’s picturesque and has so much history! There were also statues and a mini racecourse that provided visitors a taste of the atmosphere when the Grand Prix rolls around each May. Even if this walk along the marina did not lead to the Casino de Monaco and the Hôtel de Paris, it is still worth it.
After falling into a state of depression when we realized that those yachts would never fall in our hands, we made our way up the hill to the Casino de Monte-Carlo and the Hôtel de Paris, pretty much directly across the marina from the palace and aquarium. Parked in the plaza is just about every type of luxury vehicle the world offers, and we had a great time taking pictures with just about every one (thanks for the new car, mom and dad!). We were dying to check out the inside of the Hôtel de Paris but were immediately shooed out by a security guard. Apparently you have to be a guest of the hotel, because even privileged royalty like us couldn’t get in! At least we were able to admire the polished Ferraris outside of it! We then tried our luck with the Casino. You must be over 18 to enter the casino, and it is highly recommended that you dress nicely. They have a reputation to uphold! Somehow we snuck in without paying an entrance fee, and spent a few minutes checking out the foyer. No cameras are allowed inside, but what little we saw was beautiful: marble walls, floors, and pillars with ornate designs, truly fit for royals. The outdoor area between the hotel and casino is also beautiful with its flower gardens and displays complete with a satellite-dish- looking mirror that reflects the casino, perfect for a unique photo.
At this point the heat was getting to us, but rather than stopping in the crowded Café de Paris, we walked back down the hill to the harbor to find a snack. We stopped at the waterfront Chez Bacco “Le Kiosque” for some shade, thirst quenching drinks, and well deserved ice cream, perfect for overheating, jet-lagged travelers. We also took this time to do some more people watching and to take in the wealthy seaside city, before returning to the train station and headed back to Nice.
When we returned we were absolutely exhausted from our adventure in Monaco. We relaxed at Le Meridien until it was time for dinner. We decided to return to Vieux Nice for some final souvenir shopping, and our last Niçoise meal, a toast to our wonderful three days in the South of France. This time, we picked La Cambuse, right in the same plaza as La Storia, our restaurant from the first night. Somehow we hadn’t yet had our fill of the french bread, and we scarfed down several baskets full. We enjoyed every last sip of our rosé, and every last bite of our pesto soup, fish, and the largest, most delicious plate of profiteroles.
We walked off our meal with one last trip to the fortress, taking in our final sunset in Nice. After, we hit the Old Town shops one last time. The shops in Vieux Ville Nice are also unique, high-end, and worth a look. We glanced at the windows of a nineteenth-century chocolate shop, La Maison Auer, as well as other shops that offered bags of Provence lavender and the famous blue and white china. Then it was back to Le Meridien for one more night before we took off on part two of our French adventure!
Tips
- Wear nicer clothes during your days in this region. Quite a few of the sights (casino, cathedrals, etc.) we visited have a dress code, and this isn’t Disneyland! The French have a high standard of living and expect tourists to be well behaved and well dressed.
- Wear comfortable, yet fashionable shoes during the day. There are a few hills that are covered in cobblestone, so you want to be comfortable, but you're also in one of the most luxurious destinations in the world, so look the part. We probably spent more money on bandages and blister treatments than we spent on food.
- If you want to view the changing of the guard ceremony, check the time before you leave. Also, get there early, so that you can get a good viewing spot. It fills up pretty quickly.
- If you want to go into the gambling rooms at the casino, bring your passport. You must prove that you are over the age of eighteen.
- Don’t hesitate to ask for more bread at meals. You’ll need the carbs since you’ll likely be walking everywhere, and the bread in France is to die for.
- Same goes for the pizza; this isn’t your typical New York slice.
- Don’t be afraid to spend extra on dessert-we guarantee it will be delicious and calories don’t count when you're in France!
Experiencing the centuries-old tradition of vacationing to the South of France was truly unforgettable. The destination and the sights and activities that it offers may evolve over time, but the Côte d'Azur, the French Riviera, the South of France, or whatever you want to call it, will always be a timeless, must-see vacation destination.
